How to Inspect and Replace a Machined Gear Set in Your Vanquish Rig
By Vanquish Products | Published: 2026-09-13
Category: How-to Guides
A step-by-step process for inspecting gears for wear and installing a machined gear set in your Vanquish rig, with checkpoints to avoid common mistakes.
Quick answer
Inspect your gears by opening the case, cleaning them, and checking for worn or chipped teeth, then replace the set by removing the old gears, fitting the new machined gears, and resetting mesh before you run the rig. Most failures come from skipping the mesh check or reusing worn bearings, so treat those as mandatory steps. A machined set such as the VFD Twin Machined Transfer Case Gear Set is a direct swap for the sintered gears in a VFD Twin transmission.

Gears are the parts you notice last and regret ignoring first. A noisy drivetrain, a clicking sound under load, or a sudden loss of drive usually points to worn teeth, and once a gear starts shedding material the debris spreads through the case. Inspecting before a failure is cheaper and faster than rebuilding after one.
This guide walks through inspecting the gear set in your Vanquish rig and replacing it with machined gears. The process is the same whether you are chasing a failure or upgrading preemptively, and the checkpoints below are where most installs go wrong.
When to inspect and what to look for
Inspect whenever you hear a new whine, feel a bind when you rotate the wheels by hand, or notice metal flakes in the grease. Start by removing the gear case and wiping the gears clean so you can actually see the tooth surfaces. Look for chipped or rounded teeth, polished spots where material has worn away, and any play between the gear and its shaft.
Sintered gears tend to fail at the tooth root, while machined gears usually show wear as polishing or backlash rather than breakage. If one gear in the set is damaged, plan to replace the whole set rather than mixing old and new parts, because mismatched wear changes the mesh pattern.
- Checkpoint: if you find metal paste in the grease, flush the case before installing anything new.
Remove the old gear set
Support the rig so the drivetrain can spin freely, then remove the case cover and any retaining hardware. Keep fasteners in a tray or labeled bag, because small screws are easy to lose and hard to match later. Pull the gears and note their orientation before they come apart, especially if the set uses a stacked idler assembly.
Once the gears are out, clean the case interior and inspect the bearings. A bearing that feels rough or has visible play will damage a new gear set quickly, so replace it now rather than after the new gears are installed.
- Common mistake: prying gears off with a screwdriver and scoring the shaft or case surface.
Install the new machined gears
Fit the new gears in the same positions and orientation as the originals, then check that each gear spins without rubbing the case. Machined steel gears are heavier duty than sintered parts, but they still need clean seating and correct end play. If the set converts a multi-piece idler to a one-piece unit, that change reduces gear play and increases strength, so make sure it sits fully on its shaft.
Add the correct grease for your conditions, but do not pack the case so full that the gears have to push through it. A light, even coating is enough to protect the teeth without adding drag.
- Checkpoint: rotate the drivetrain by hand before closing the case and listen for any clicking or binding.
Set mesh and verify before you run
Mesh is the gap between gear teeth, and it is the single biggest factor in how long a new set lasts. With the case closed but the cover still accessible, check for excessive backlash by holding one gear and rocking the other. You want a small amount of play, not a tight bind and not a loose rattle.
Run the rig at low speed for a short session, then reopen the case and check for metal dust or unusual wear patterns. If the gears look clean and the drivetrain sounds normal, you are done. If not, reset mesh before running again.
- Common mistake: setting mesh too tight to quiet a noise, which overheats the gears and accelerates wear.
Step-by-step replacement process
- Open and clean the case: Remove the cover, wipe the gears and case clean, and inspect for metal debris before deciding what to replace. Checkpoint: metal paste in the grease means you should flush the case before installing new parts.
- Check gears and bearings: Look for chipped or worn teeth and test each bearing for roughness or play. Common mistake: reusing a rough bearing, which will damage a new gear set.
- Remove the old set: Pull the gears and note their orientation, keeping fasteners organized as you go. Checkpoint: never pry against the case or shaft with a screwdriver.
- Fit the new machined gears: Seat each gear fully, confirm it spins freely, and apply a light, even coat of grease. Common mistake: overpacking the case with grease, which adds drag.
- Set mesh and test: Adjust backlash for a small amount of play, then run at low speed and recheck for wear. Checkpoint: if you hear clicking or find metal dust, reset mesh before running again.
Parts that fit this job
- VFD Twin Machined Transfer Case Gear Set: This gear set replaces all sintered gears inside of the transfer case of the VFD Twin transmission. These are heavy duty machined steel 48P gears that will work in any VFD Twin Transmission. The idler gear assembly is converted to a one piece unit that reduces gear play and increases strength. If you are replacing a worn sintered set in a VFD Twin, this is a direct upgrade that also simplifies the idler assembly.
- Hurtz Dig V2 Replacement Parts: Vanquish Products Aluminum Hurtz Dig V2 Replacement Parts. Includes: Drive Dog, Slide Dog, Rear Dog, Shift Arm, Arm Pivot, Rear Output Hardware. This is not for use on VFD Hurtz dig, please see VPS01366 for VFD dig replacement parts. If your inspection shows wear in the dig assembly rather than the transfer case, these are the correct replacement components for the Hurtz Dig V2, not the VFD version.
- Incision AR14B RBX10 Ryft 43/13 Gear Set: Incision Gear Set for Axial AR14B Axles used in the RBX10 Ryft 43/13 gear ratio allows for tuning overall gear ratio or creating underdrive when installed only in rear axle. Feature an included larger bearing on the inner side of the pinion for greater load handling. Works with stock axle housings* or Vanquish Products axle housings. Hardened machined gear construction improves durability over stock. If your rig uses AR14B axles, this set lets you change ratio or add underdrive while upgrading to hardened machined gears.
Inspecting and replacing a gear set is a job you can do in an afternoon with basic tools and a clean workspace. The two things that decide whether the new gears last are bearing condition and mesh, so slow down at those steps and verify before you run hard.



