How to Store and Organize Vanquish Parts and Hardware

Quick answer

Sort parts by platform first, then by subassembly, and keep hardware in a separate labeled container system. If you store everything in one bin, you will spend more time hunting for a screw than wrenching. A cheap set of compartment boxes plus a label maker solves most of it.

RC crawler projects stall for small reasons. The most common one is a missing fastener or a part you know you own but cannot find. Vanquish builds reward planning, and storage is the least glamorous part of that plan.

This guide walks through a storage setup you can build in an afternoon. It covers sorting, containers, labels, and the small habits that keep hardware usable instead of scattered.

Start by sorting by platform and subassembly

Before buying any bins, empty your parts pile and group everything by the vehicle it belongs to. A VS4-10 part should not live in the same box as an SCX10-II part unless you enjoy mixing fasteners. Once grouped by platform, split each pile into subassemblies: axles, transmission, steering, links, and body.

This two-level sort matters because most builds move one subassembly at a time. When you upgrade a transfer case or replace shock hoops, you want the related hardware in the same tray, not spread across three drawers. Keep a small 'unknown' bin for parts you cannot identify yet, and revisit it after each build.

• Common mistake: sorting by part size instead of by platform. Size grouping looks tidy but fails the moment you need a specific screw.
• Checkpoint: if you cannot name the vehicle and subassembly for a part, it goes in the unknown bin.

Choose containers that match the part size

Hardware needs small compartments; bodies and chassis rails need shelf space. A compartment box with adjustable dividers handles screws, rod ends, and washers. Larger parts like a Phoenix Body Set w/VRD1 Cage should stay flat on a shelf or in a labeled tote so the clear Lexan body does not get crushed or scratched.

Do not overbuy storage before you know your volume. Start with one compartment box for M3 hardware, one for larger fasteners, and one shelf tote per active build. Add more only when a category overflows. Stackable boxes save bench space, but only if you actually stack them instead of leaving them open.

• Keep stainless links and long chassis parts flat or vertical, never bent into a bin.
• Checkpoint: if a box cannot close with the lid flat, it is overfilled and will spill.

Label everything and keep a hardware map

Labels are the difference between a storage system and a pile of boxes. Label each compartment with the fastener size and thread, not just 'screws.' A label like 'M3x8 button' saves more time than 'small screws' ever will. Use a label maker or masking tape and a marker; the method matters less than consistency.

Keep a one-page hardware map taped inside the lid of your main box. It lists which compartment holds which size and which subassembly uses it. When you replace a part, update the map. This habit also helps when you order spares, because you can see what you are actually low on.

• Common mistake: labeling by project name only. Projects end; fastener sizes do not.
• Checkpoint: a friend should be able to find an M3 washer in under 30 seconds using your labels.

Store parts so they stay usable

Metal parts can corrode or get scratched if they sit loose in a damp garage. Keep anodized aluminum parts like SCX10-II Shock Hoops Black Anodized in a dry drawer or sealed tote, and avoid tossing them against steel hardware. The anodized finish is cosmetic but chipped edges look worn and can hide cracks.

Small fasteners are the easiest thing to lose and the hardest to replace mid-build. Keep a dedicated tray for rod ends, hollow balls, and pins. If you run a trailing arm delete or similar link change, the leftover hardware should go straight into the correct compartment, not a random cup on the bench.

• Use a magnetic tray for active builds, but empty it back into labeled storage when the build pauses.
• Checkpoint: if you cannot close a build session by returning hardware to its labeled home, your system is too complex.

Keep a travel and bench kit separate

A small travel kit with the most common fasteners and tools saves a session at the trail. Build it from your main storage, not from loose parts. Include a few M3 screws, rod ends, and a driver that fits your rig. This kit is not a substitute for full storage; it is a first-aid box.

On the bench, keep one open tray for the current step and nothing else. When the step is done, hardware goes back to labeled storage. This single habit prevents the slow spread of parts across your workspace that makes the next build harder.

• Common mistake: using the travel kit as primary storage. It will empty out and never get refilled.
• Checkpoint: refill the travel kit after every outing so it is ready next time.

Storage setup steps

1. Empty and sort by platform: Dump every part onto a mat and group by vehicle first, then by subassembly. This is the step most people skip, and it is why their bins end up mixed. If a part has no clear platform, put it in an unknown bin and move on.
2. Pick containers for each category: Use compartment boxes for fasteners, flat totes for bodies and rails, and a shelf for active builds. Do not buy a wall of bins before you know your volume. One good compartment box beats five cheap ones that spill.
3. Label by size and thread: Write the actual fastener size on each compartment, such as M3x8 button. Keep a hardware map inside the main lid and update it when you add parts. If you cannot find a washer in 30 seconds, relabel.
4. Protect finishes and small parts: Keep anodized aluminum and clear bodies away from loose steel hardware. Store rod ends and pins in a dedicated tray so they do not vanish mid-build. A dry drawer prevents corrosion and scratches better than a sealed box in a damp garage.
5. Maintain the system after each session: Return leftover hardware to its labeled home and refill your travel kit. The system only works if you close the loop after every build or repair. Five minutes of cleanup saves an hour of searching next time.

Parts that benefit from proper storage

• VRD S23 Aluminum Chassis Rails: Replacement part for the VPS09009 VRD Stance RTR, and can be used on the VPS09009 to replace the aluminum S23 chassis rails. Long chassis rails bend or scratch if stored loose in a bin, so keep them flat on a shelf or in a rigid tote.
• Phoenix Body Set w/VRD1 Cage: Clear unpainted body set with VRD1 rear cage, 3-piece body design, removable bed sides, and a full interior; includes a 100% cut clear Lexan body with no trimming required. The clear body and cage are easy to scuff, so store them flat and separate from metal parts to protect the finish before paint.
• Incision SMT10 Trailing Arm Delete Link Kit: Stainless steel link kit for removing trailing arms on the Axial SMT10, includes 2pcs 126mm stainless links and 4pcs rod ends with steel hollow balls. Small rod ends and hollow balls are easy to lose, so store them in a labeled compartment rather than a loose bag.
• SCX10-II Shock Hoops Black Anodized: Aluminum shock hoops for the Axial SCX10-II with a one-piece integrated panhard mount and added shock mounting positions. Anodized aluminum shows scratches, so keep these in a dry drawer or padded tray instead of a metal parts bin.

A storage system does not need to be expensive or elaborate. Sort by platform, label by size, and protect the parts that scratch easily. Do that, and your next Vanquish build starts with wrenching instead of searching.