How to Maintain Aluminum Steering and Servo Mount Parts
By Vanquish Products - Premium RC Crawler Kits & Accessories | Published: 2026-09-13
Category: Tips & Care
Keep your crawler's steering tight and corrosion-free with a simple maintenance routine for aluminum steering and servo mount parts, including anodized care.
Quick answer
Clean aluminum steering and servo mount parts with mild soap and water, dry them fully, then apply a thin layer of silicone-based lubricant to pivot points. Check for loose screws and worn bushings every few runs. Avoid harsh solvents that strip anodizing, and re-torque hardware to spec.
Aluminum steering and servo mount parts take a beating on the trail. Dirt, water, and vibration work together to loosen screws, wear pivot points, and dull anodized finishes. A little routine care keeps steering precise and prevents costly failures.
This guide walks through a simple maintenance process you can do at home with basic tools. It covers cleaning, inspection, lubrication, and storage, with specific checkpoints to avoid common mistakes.
Why aluminum steering and servo mounts need regular care
Aluminum parts are strong but not immune to grit. Dust and mud act like sandpaper on pivot points, slowly wearing away material and creating slop in the steering. Anodized coatings protect against corrosion, but they can be scratched or chemically stripped, leaving bare aluminum vulnerable to oxidation.
Servo mounts endure constant torque from the servo, so screws can stretch or back out. Regular maintenance catches these issues early. It also gives you a chance to inspect for bent or cracked components after a hard impact.
- Check steering linkages for play after every few runs.
- Look for shiny spots on anodized surfaces—they indicate wear.
Step 1: Disassemble and clean
Remove the steering assembly and servo mount from the chassis. Keep screws and small parts in a magnetic tray so you don't lose them. Brush off loose dirt with a soft-bristle brush, then wash the aluminum parts in warm water with a few drops of mild dish soap. Use a toothbrush to reach tight corners.
Rinse thoroughly and dry immediately with a microfiber cloth or compressed air. Do not let parts air-dry, as water spots can leave minerals that promote corrosion. For anodized parts, avoid abrasive pads or cleaners containing ammonia or harsh acids.
- Never use brake cleaner or acetone on anodized aluminum—it will strip the finish.
- Dry all threaded holes with a cotton swab to prevent trapped moisture.
Step 2: Inspect for wear and damage
Once clean, inspect each part under bright light. Check pivot holes for elongation, which indicates wear. Look for cracks around screw holes and bends in steering arms. Test the servo mount for straightness by placing it on a flat surface; a wobble means it's bent and should be replaced.
Examine screw threads for signs of stripping or corrosion. If screws are rusty, replace them with stainless steel hardware. Also check any bushings or bearings in the steering system—they should spin freely without roughness.
- A bent servo mount can cause inconsistent steering; replace it rather than trying to bend it back.
- Worn pivot holes can be fixed temporarily with a thin shim, but replacement is the long-term fix.
Step 3: Lubricate pivot points
Apply a small amount of silicone-based lubricant or dry-film PTFE to pivot points and where the steering linkage connects. Avoid heavy grease that attracts dirt. A light coating reduces friction and slows wear. Wipe off excess so it doesn't collect grit.
For the servo mount, a drop of light oil on the servo saver post (if equipped) keeps it moving smoothly. Do not lubricate threaded holes—it can cause screws to loosen.
- Use a cotton swab to apply lubricant precisely.
- Reapply lubricant after every few runs or after washing the rig.
Step 4: Reassemble with proper torque
Reinstall the steering and servo mount using threadlocker on screws that thread into metal. Tighten screws in a cross pattern to avoid warping. Use a quality hex driver that fits snugly—rounded drivers can strip screw heads.
For critical fasteners, consult your kit's manual for torque specs. If specs aren't available, tighten until snug plus a small turn. Over-tightening can strip threads in aluminum, especially in soft alloys.
- Apply blue threadlocker (medium strength) to screws that don't need frequent removal.
- Check steering for full range of motion after reassembly; binding indicates over-tightened screws.
Step 5: Protect anodized finishes
Anodized parts care is mostly about prevention. After cleaning, you can apply a UV-resistant sealant or a light coat of silicone spray to help protect the finish. This also makes future cleaning easier. Avoid polishing compounds that contain abrasives, as they can dull the anodizing.
If the anodizing is already scratched, you can touch it up with a matching color anodizing pen, but this is cosmetic. The priority is preventing corrosion on bare aluminum. A thin layer of corrosion inhibitor on exposed areas helps.
- Store your rig in a dry place to prevent condensation on aluminum parts.
- Avoid leaving the rig in direct sunlight for long periods; UV can fade anodizing.
Maintenance steps at a glance
- Clean with mild soap and water: Disassemble, brush off dirt, wash with dish soap, rinse, and dry immediately. Never use harsh solvents on anodized aluminum.
- Inspect for wear and damage: Check pivot holes, cracks, bends, and screw threads. Replace bent servo mounts. A straight edge helps detect bent mounts.
- Lubricate pivot points: Apply silicone or PTFE lubricant sparingly to moving contacts. Wipe off excess. Avoid grease that attracts dirt.
- Reassemble with threadlocker and proper torque: Use blue threadlocker on metal-to-metal screws. Tighten in a cross pattern. Don't over-tighten; aluminum threads strip easily.
- Protect anodized finishes: Apply UV sealant or silicone spray after cleaning. Store in a dry place. Touch up scratches with anodizing pen for cosmetics.
Vanquish parts that benefit from this care
- Incision SCX10-II VDI Universals: Built from high quality heat treated chromoly steel, come assembled for easy installation, and fit tight into locker for less rotational slop. These universals are part of the steering system on SCX10-II builds. Keeping them clean and lubricated reduces wear and maintains precise steering.
- Incision Wraith Transmission Outputs: Made from hardened chromoly and black oxide coated for corrosion resistance, drilled for through pin style driveshafts. The black oxide coating requires gentle cleaning to avoid damage. Regular inspection of these outputs ensures they don't wear and cause drivetrain slop.
A few minutes of care after each run keeps your steering precise and your aluminum parts looking good. Follow these steps, and you'll avoid the most common causes of steering slop and corrosion.

