How to Install Incision SCX10-III Straight Axle Links on a VS4-10

Quick answer

Install Incision SCX10-III straight axle links by supporting the chassis, removing the old links one at a time, and reusing your factory rod ends. Thread the rod ends onto the new links to match the old eye-to-eye length, then torque the mounting screws snug. Work one link at a time so the axle stays aligned.

Swapping the links on a VS4-10 is one of the simplest ways to sharpen steering feel and tighten the axle location, and Incision straight links are a popular choice because they reuse your existing rod ends. The job takes basic hand tools and about an hour if you keep the axle supported and match each new link to the old one before you tighten anything down.

This guide walks through the install in order, from prep to final check, and flags the mistakes that cause stripped threads, binding suspension, or a crooked axle. The steps apply whether you are replacing worn links or moving to a straighter, stronger setup for trail and crawl use.

What you need before you start

Gather a hex driver set, a small wrench for the rod ends, threadlocker, and a clean rag. You will also want a flat work surface and something to support the chassis so the axle does not hang and load the links while you work. Have your replacement links laid out and labeled so you can match each one to its position.

If you are using the Incision Titanium VS4-10 Ultra 10pc Link Kit, note that it includes the drag link, panhard link, upper and lower links, and tie rod, and it reuses the factory rod ends. That means you do not need new rod ends, but you should inspect the old ones for slop or cracked plastic before reuse.

• Label each new link with tape or a marker before you remove anything.
• Check the old rod ends for play; replace any that feel loose or show cracks.

Step 1: Support the chassis and remove the old links

Place the vehicle on a stand or block so the wheels are off the ground and the suspension is at ride height, not fully drooped. Remove one link at a time, starting with the upper links or the link that is easiest to reach. Keep the mounting screws and any spacers with the link you removed so you know exactly where they go back.

A common mistake is removing all the links at once. That lets the axle rotate and drop, which makes it much harder to line up the new links and can stress the driveshaft. Work one corner at a time and the axle stays roughly where it belongs.

• Checkpoint: the axle should still sit roughly centered after each link is removed.
• If a screw is tight, apply steady pressure rather than forcing it, and avoid rounding the hex.

Step 2: Match the new link length to the old one

Before installing, thread the rod ends onto the new link and adjust until the eye-to-eye length matches the old link. This is the most important measurement because it sets your axle position and steering geometry. Measure from the center of one rod end hole to the center of the other, not the overall length of the link.

For the Incision Yeti 1/4 Stainless Steel Front Link Kit, the package includes four 62mm stainless links and eight rod ends with steel hollow balls, so you have spares if you need them. Even though that kit is listed for the Axial Yeti, the measuring method is the same: match eye-to-eye length to the link you are replacing.

• Mistake to avoid: measuring overall length instead of eye-to-eye, which changes your axle position.
• Turn both rod ends equally so the link stays centered and you keep as much thread engagement as possible.

Step 3: Install the new links and torque the hardware

Slide each new link into place and start the mounting screw by hand before tightening. Use a small amount of threadlocker on the screws that thread into metal, and snug them down. Do not overtighten, especially into plastic or aluminum, because you can strip the threads or crush the rod end.

If you are installing the Incision Washer Head Screw for servo mounting, keep in mind those are intended for servo installation and come four per package, so they are not the right fastener for suspension links. Use the factory link screws or the hardware supplied with your link kit for the suspension.

• Checkpoint: the link should pivot freely by hand with no side-to-side play.
• Recheck each screw after the first run; threadlocker needs a little time to set.

Step 4: Set ride height and check for binding

With all links installed, set the vehicle on the ground and compress the suspension slowly through its travel. Watch for the links to bind, contact the chassis, or pull the axle off center. If something binds, loosen the rod ends and adjust the length slightly, then recheck.

This is also a good time to check your pinion angle and steering. If you changed the panhard or drag link, make sure the axle is centered and the steering rack moves freely. Small adjustments here prevent poor handling and premature wear on the rod ends.

• Mistake to avoid: setting ride height with the suspension fully drooped, which hides binding.
• If the axle is off center, adjust the panhard link rather than forcing the other links.

Step 5: Final check and first run

Do a final pass over every screw and rod end. Confirm the links are tight, the rod ends are fully seated, and nothing rubs at full steering lock or full compression. Take a slow first run on flat ground and listen for clicks or pops that suggest a loose link.

After the first run, recheck the screws and rod ends. New links can settle slightly, and a quick re-torque keeps everything secure. If you used the Incision Titanium VS4-10 Ultra 10pc Link Kit, remember it reuses the factory rod ends, so inspect those again after the first run for any new play.

• Checkpoint: no binding, no play, and the axle stays centered through travel.
• Re-torque after the first run, then check again after a full battery pack.

Install steps at a glance

1. Support the chassis: Lift the vehicle so the suspension sits at ride height and the axle is supported before removing any link. Checkpoint: the axle stays roughly centered as you work.
2. Remove one link at a time: Take off a single link and keep its screws and spacers together so you know exactly where they go back. Mistake to avoid: removing all links at once lets the axle drop and misalign.
3. Match eye-to-eye length: Thread the rod ends onto the new link until the center-to-center distance matches the old link. Checkpoint: measure eye-to-eye, not overall length.
4. Install and snug the hardware: Start screws by hand, add a little threadlocker where metal threads meet, and tighten until snug without overtightening. Mistake to avoid: overtightening into plastic or aluminum strips threads.
5. Check travel and centering: Cycle the suspension and steering through full travel to confirm no binding and the axle stays centered. If it binds, adjust the rod ends slightly and recheck.
6. Re-torque after the first run: Do a slow first run, then recheck every screw and rod end for play or loosening. Checkpoint: no clicks, no play, and the axle stays centered.

Parts that fit this job

• Incision Titanium VS4-10 Ultra 10pc Link Kit: Includes all link shafts to replace the stainless steel links included in the VS4-10 Ultra Kit, made from 3/16 inch titanium, and reuses the factory rod ends. You get a complete set of upper, lower, drag, panhard, and tie rod links without buying new rod ends, which keeps the install simple and cost-effective.
• Incision Yeti 1/4 Stainless Steel Front Link Kit: Includes four 62mm stainless steel links and eight rod ends with steel hollow balls, made from stainless steel for durability at an affordable cost. If you need replacement rod ends or a durable front link set for a similar scale build, this kit gives you the hardware in one package.
• Washer Head Screw: The Incision Washer Head Screw is a small mounting fastener intended for servo installation, supplied four per package. These are for servo mounting, not suspension links, so use the correct link hardware to avoid stripped threads or loose links.

Installing Incision straight axle links on a VS4-10 comes down to patience and measuring eye-to-eye before you tighten anything. Work one link at a time, reuse your factory rod ends when the kit allows, and recheck everything after the first run. Done right, you get a tighter axle and steering feel without chasing stripped threads or binding.